What is an AHA anyway?

It’s a cluttered skincare world out there! One standout ingredient group that consistently delivers results is alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs. These water-soluble acids break down the glue-like bonds between dead skin cells, making it easier for them to slough off. This is what we call a chemical exfoliant.

AHAs can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. AHA’s help to remove the surface layer of the skin and reveal smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin underneath. Common types used in skincare include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid. They are often recommended for those with dull, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and wrinkles.

Despite being called a “Chemical” Exfoliant, AHA’s are derived from natural sources!

AHAs are derived from various natural sources, including fruit, milk, and sugar cane. Glycolic acid, for example, is derived from sugar cane, while lactic acid is found in milk. AHAs are considered to be mild chemical exfoliants that work on the surface of the skin, unlike beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) that can penetrate deeper into the pores.

Types of AHA’s

The most common: Glycolic Acid

Derived from: Sugar Cane

  • Smallest molecular size, penetrates deeper for more effective exfoliation
  • Helps reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation
  • Stimulates collagen production for firmer skin

Best For: Combination, oily, or acne-prone skin or those looking to tackle signs of aging or uneven skin texture

Lactic Acid

Derived from: Milk

  • Larger molecule size, so is gentler and more hydrating
  • Improves skin moisture levels while exfoliating
  • Helps reduce the appearance of dark spots

Best For: Dry or sensitive skin types. Ideal for those new to chemical exfoliation

The most gentle: Mandelic Acid

Derived from: Almonds

  • Larger molecule size, making it slower to penetrate, reducing discomfort and irritation
  • Known for its antibacterial properties, making it great for acne-prone skin
  • Helps with hyperpigmentation and fine lines without being too harsh

Best For: Reactive, acne-prone skin, or those with darker skin tones. Excellent for a gradual, gentle exfoliation

Citric Acid

Derived from: Citrus Fruits

  • Primarily used for brightening dull skin, usually combined with other acids
  • Has antioxidant properties that protect against environmental damage

Best For: Brightening, dull or uneven skin tones.

A Blend

AHA’s are often found blended together in a single product! This can address a wider range of concerns in a single product. Blends bring a balance of effectiveness and gentleness to the table. Eg: Glycolic + Manelic. Mandelic acid, is milder and less likely to cause irritation, so will buffer the harsher effects glycolic acid, a ‘stronger’ AHA.

How does an AHA work on the skin, and are they safe?

AHAs work by breaking down the intercellular glue that holds dead skin cells together, helping to remove the top layer of the skin and promote cell turnover. This can lead to smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin. In addition to their exfoliating properties, AHAs can also help to hydrate the skin and boost collagen production, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time.

AHAs are generally safe for most skin types1, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or redness when using products containing AHAs. It’s important to start with a lower concentration of AHA and gradually increase over time, and to always use sunscreen when incorporating AHAs into your skincare routine.

Overall, AHAs can be a beneficial addition to a skincare routine for those looking to improve the texture and appearance of their skin. However, as with any skincare product, it’s important to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine what products and concentrations are best suited for your individual skin type and concerns.

Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid is proven and here to stay

Scientifically proven2 to offer a smoother skin to a brighter complexion – by gently exfoliating and promoting cell turnover, AHAs help address concerns like dullness, uneven tone, and fine lines. Most of us will face one of these concerns at some point, if not already, so it makes sense to reach for an AHA-based product. However, as with any skincare ingredient, it’s essential to start slow, monitor how your skin reacts, and always, always, always use sun protection. When used correctly, AHAs can be a powerful tool in achieving healthier, more radiant skin—just be sure to consult with a professional to tailor your routine to your unique needs.

References:

  1. Grover C, Reddu BS. The therapeutic value of glycolic acid peels in dermatology. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2003;69:148–150
  2. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review – Jaishree Sharad (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2013:6 281–288)