Updated 17/01/2025: Wow! We wrote this post back in 2021, as a quick guide for our dermaplaning salons. Four years later and dermaplaning is still a very popular in-salon treatment, and this post has had A LOT of views. While most of the info is still very much relevant to today, we thought it was time to review for 2025. Where we’ve made updates we’ve noted these as “2025 additions” below.
Dermaplaning, sometimes called epidermal levelling, is a safe procedure for exfoliating the epidermis and ridding the skin of fine vellus hair (peach fuzz) of the face. Like all skincare treatments, dermaplaning has contraindications and precautions.
Contraindicaitons rule out a client from being able to receive a treatment.
Precautions, of the other hand, means more info may need to be requested prior to making a decision. We use the term precautions as this does not mean clients cannot be treated 100% of the time.
Dermaplaning Contraindications
The “no-no’s”: (2025 us wants to clarify – “no no” doesn’t mean maybe, this means definitely DO NOT dermaplane if you/your client has any of these conditions)
- Acne vulargis (2025 Note: we’re talking active acne vilargis; pus-filled pimples, large, red and tender bumps, etc. If acne is in a very small area, this area can simply be avoided otherwise do not treat.)
- Skin cancer
- Uncontrolled diabetes (2025 Note: if under control by diet or medication treatment is perfectly fine. Let’s not demonise diabetes.)
- Open wounds/skin lesions
- Recent chemical peel procedure (4-6 weeks)
- Chemotherapy or radiation
- Family history of hypertrophic scarring or keloid formation
- Haemophilia
- Scleroderma
- Tattoos (facial)
- Thick, dark facial hair
- Moles, numerous raised lesions on the skin
- Sunburn
- An allergy to stainless steel
- Use of Isotretinoin (e.g. Roaccutane®) in the past 6 months
- Oral blood thinner medications
- Active infection of any type, such as herpes simplex or flat warts
Dermaplaning Precautions
- Rosacea, eczema or dermatitis – depending on area and severity
- Acne – can be treated depending on severity (do not treat grade 3 or above)
- Pregnancy
Dermaplaning is a safe way to exfoliate for pregnant women because it’s a simple mechanical exfoliation that doesn’t involve any acids or chemicals. Care should be taken surrounding use of topical products, and treatment should only be performed on healthy skin. Sometimes hormonal breakouts make dermaplaning unsuitable.
- Prescription retinol within 1-2 weeks of treatment
The key question here – how thin/crepey is the skin? Very thin skin may not be suitable.
- Recent use of topical agents such as glycolic acids, alpha-hydroxy acids and Retin-A (4 weeks)
Depending on the product and client’s skin, however, we should always aim to avoid over-exfoliation.
- IPL/Laser Facial treatments within the last month
- Vascular lesions: major couperose skin should be avoided. Minor facial vessels on a case by case scenario.
- History of cold sores: Whilst treatment can be performed preventative measures should be taken and treatment should not be carried out if a breakout is present or in the healing process. Without the use of a preventative oral anti-herpes medication, the cold sores can spread due to micro-tears in the skin.
- “Botox”/Botulinum Toxin/Fillers within the past 1 week
It is ok to dermaplane prior to client receiving injections. Dermaplaning after injection can move the product causing an undesirable result. [2025 Note: as more and more clients resort to injectables – after all, the price isn’t as prohibitive as it once as! – do ensure this question is on your intake form]
- Clients who are experiencing high anxiety
Another 2025 addition – we’ve been adding this on verbally this when training beauty therapists for years – but recently, in part due to the more open conversations we’re all having on mental health, we think it’s time to be clear – there are safer treatment options for very anxious clients. Try a facial scrub or exfoliation.