Brow Mapping Tutorial

Brow mapping involves measuring the eyebrows using a number of fixed points. The aim is to define an even and symmetrical shape. It serves as a basis for finding a brow shape that flatters the shape of the face. The processes also allows your client to view the drawn shape in advance. No more unhappy clients!

We’ve put together 2 tutorials – Quick and Advanced.

Quick Brow Mapping is perfect for quickly measuring the three most important areas of the brow: Beginning, Highest Point, Length.

Advanced Brow Mapping is more accurate and precise. In addition to beginning, highest point and length, you can also determine the width and fullness of the brows.

Basic Brow Mapping

For Basic Brow Mapping, the eyebrows are measured using three fixed points. This simple, but highly effective, method is great for:

  • Clients with well-defined eyebrows, where hardly any change is necessary
  • Regular clients, for maintenance between appointments
Basic Brow Mapping

Step 1: Preparation

Cleanse the eye area thoroughly with RefectoCil Micellar Eye Make-up Remover.

Dry the eye area and brush the eyebrows upwards with the spoolie before application.

Measure the following 3 points using the RefectoCil brush. Mark them with the RefectoCil Brow Mapper by drawing 2 cm long lines above the eyebrow.

Basic Brow Mapping

Step 2: Measure & Mark

Beginning of the eyebrow: Hold the brush to the nostril: This is where the eyebrow begins.

End of the eyebrow: Hold the pencil at an angle from the wing of the nose to the outer corner of the eye: this is where the eyebrow ends.

The highest point: Hold the brush diagonally over the eye, through the outer edge of the pupil: This is where the arch begins.

Using these marking points, you can colour and style the eyebrows in the correct shape.

Advanced Brow Mapping

For our advanced method, we are creating a more precise shape with the help of coloured thread and individual fixed points. The aim is to create a “template” for waxing/tweezing and tinting. This method is best for:

  • New clients, for a detailed analysis of their current brow and to ensure they are happy with their new shape prior to hair removal
  • Clients with a strongly asymmetrical eyebrow shape that needs correcting
  • When a complete remodel of the current brow shape is desired
Advanced Brow Mapping

Step 1: Preparation

Cleanse the eye area thoroughly with RefectoCil Micellar Eye Make-up Remover.

Dry the eye area and brush the eyebrows upwards with the spoolie before application.

Shorten a thin thread (e.g. sewing thread) and pass it over the RefectoCil Brow Mapper until the thread is dyed white.

You can also use our Pre-Inked Brow Mapping String! We just prefer the flexibility of colouring our own – this allows part of the string to remain “un-inked” and can be handled without staining. (Try both methods and you will see what we mean! 😎)

Advanced Brow Mapping

Step 2: Measure & Mark

Place the thread in the centre of the bridge of the nose and extend the line.

Mark the beginning of the brow by placing the taut thread vertically upwards
over the brow starting at the nostril.

Repeat the process on the second eyebrow.

Mark the optimal brow length by placing the thread at the following points: 1) lip heart 2) outer nose wing 3) outer corner of the eye.

Repeat the process on the other side.

Mark the highest point of the brow by placing the thread at the following points: 1) outer wing of the nose 2) through the outer edge of the pupil 3) over the eyebrow.

Repeat the process on the other side.

Place the thread horizontally under the brow to measure the lowest point of the brow.

Place the thread horizontally and above the beginning of the brow to mark the width of the brow.

Place the thread on the lower line and stretch it over the highest point of the eyebrow.

Repeat the process on the other side.

Place the thread on the upper line and stretch it over the highest point of the brow.

Repeat the process on the other side.

Place the thread on the upper edge at the end of the brow and mark the lowest point of the brow arch.

Place the thread on the lower edge at the end of the brow and mark the lowest point of the brow arch.

Repeat the process on the other side.

Repeat the process on the other side.

Stretch the thread horizontally over the two highest points of the brow to check if the height of both eyebrows match.

Advanced Brow Mapping

Step 3: Colour

We now have a template for our brow shape! Adjust the subtleties of the shape (curve, width, etc.) depending on your client.

Colour as usual with RefectoCil Brow Tints.

Allow tint to develop for 8 – 10 minutes.

Advanced Brow Mapping

Step 4: Shape & Care

Gently wipe off the colour with a damp cotton pad. This leaves the lines visible for shaping.

Remove hair outside the lines using Tweezers or Berodin Blue Hot Wax.

After shaping, wipe off colour residue and lines with RefectoCil Eye Make-up Remover (if tweezing). If waxing, remove tint residue and lines using Lavender Antiseptic Lotion instead.

Use a clean brush or disposable mascara wand to apply Styling Gel to the brows. Providing the perfect finish, the unique colour protect formula conditions the brows and provides longer-lasting colour!

Download Cheat Sheet (PDF)